by Stacey Yervasi
Grade: A-

ATMOSPHERE
Strolling into Park Cities Prime for a Friday dinner reservation, we were greeted with the welcome sound of a cocktail shaker. Black-frocked women and gentlemen outfitted in boots, jeans, and sports coats were perched comfortably at the bar. Couples of varying ages occupied several tables, and a piano player performed classic standards in a corner.

The feel was clubby but not exclusive, classy yet approachable. Despite the tony address and corresponding clientele, guests seemed unconcerned about the restaurant's who's who and seemed content to enjoy the music and cocktails.

FOOD
We started off with Smoked Norwegian Salmon with English Cucumbers ($12), a delicious departure from the typical calamari or crab cakes. Long slivers of cucumber were wrapped around plump slices of smoked salmon and placed on lightly toasted bread. Lemon slices and colorful piles of capers, red bell peppers, purple onion, minced pickle complemented a sauce of sour cream and dill. The fish was buttery and tender, and the accompaniments added a tasty punch to the salmon's salty base.

Although the menu included lamb, pork, and fish selections in addition to beef, we couldn't pass on the prime referenced in the restaurant's name. The 10 oz. Rancher's Tenderloin Filet ($35) was juicy, a perfect medium pink, and not too charred on the outside. Each bite was tender without gristle or fat and required no embellishment. The presentation was simple and included a side of fresh green beans. While the steak was a standout, the crisp veggies were a nice addition.

Apple Crisp ($6.50) was a surprisingly light ending to our meal. Slippery slices of fresh apples liberally flecked with cinnamon were covered with a nutty crumb topping and a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. The apples maintained a pleasing crispness but might have benefited from a warmup to help the ice cream melt.

SERVICE
Our waiter was attentive and conscientious, pacing the floor making sure his tables were covered. Water was refilled like clockwork and the pacing was excellent. We had to ask for a steak knife after our entrees arrived, but other than that, our needs were meticulousy met.